For some reason I usually don’t find Milan Fashion Week to be very thrilling, this time however there was a lot I enjoyed.
Emilio Pucci has been getting better and better each season. The alligator motives embedded to chiffon remind me of a certain Givenchy collection, which means nothing more than that it’s a great technique. The white tuxedo jacket is beautiful.
Etro. These belts with peplums are gonna take the world by storm.
Alberta Ferretti. Sharp tailored coats, strong 30’s influence.
Roberto Cavalli. I can appreciate the new skirt silhouette, though takes some getting used to. Killer jackets.
Gucci absolutely blew my mind. The fine wool coats, the mustard prints, the sheer and the embroidery. Dark lips and bleached eyebrows… hmm, could it be Rooney Mara’s influence?
Salvatore Ferragamo. There can never be enough military coats in the worlds.
I know we are almost done with Milan by now, but bare with me while I share my thoughts on London Fashion Week.
Aquascutum. Looks like a hybrid of Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim, but stands in its own right. Love the severity.
Giles delivered a range of interesting dresses.
As did Mary Katrantzou. This babydoll cut looks really fresh, though of course I’d personally prefer different prints/colors.
Burberry Prorsum. The waist is clearly in focus – belts, pencilskirts, peplums, cropped jackets and exaggerated pockets. Accessories are killing it! Also, I was thinking the other day of how Burberry is the Coca-Cola of trenches, everybody tries to copy the formula, but no one ever gets it like Burberry does.
This expression isn’t very erudite but OMFG!!! Burberry Prorsum’s final walkthrough was magical! Not only did they somehow make it rain even outside the wintergarden, those studded gloves are what everyone is talking about. Christopher Bailey delivered again, ladies and gentlemen – these gloves are the ultimate statussymbols next fall(also great for self-protection).They better make a few million pairs to accommodate the demand. And it actually might be possible that Mr. Bailey just upgraded all the (studded) umbrellas of the world to the accessory category. I haven’t really been thrilled with Burberry’s last two seasons, but this time I loved it!
New York Fashion Week has come and gone, time to make some conclusions.
1) WTF is going on inside Marc Jacobs’ head? His namesake was horrific!
2) Victoria Beckham and The Row get a big thumbs-up.
3) Alexander Wang is starting to look more and more like Christina Yang.
4) Generally speaking – I’m entirely underwhelmed. Didn’t see anything with a wow-factor. Even Michael Kors was a total buzzkill. Guess all my hopes are on Paris this time.
There were, however, some highlights:
Alexander Wang. The doctor’s bags are a total score! I like the combinations of different textures of shiny black and the overlaying sense of austerity.
Altuzarra is really starting to establish himself as a higher rank designer. According to him, this collection was made for a pirate, whose mother was a gypsy and father a Venetian.
Cushie et Ochs. By far the most interesting designer duo out there.
3.1 Phillip Lim. The first thought that came to mind – Elin Kling. This looks like something she’d wear, which is a very good thing.
Helmut Lang . Thigh-highs, leather, fur and mesh. What more could a girl ask for?
You know, the time for…
… candids from backstage…
… Olsens in the front row…
… accessory tables…
… 5000 $ coats on the street…
… and veteran models crawling out of their holes.
It’s fashion week, bitches!
A year ago, the Celine fall show was a revelation. This time, it was slightly less vampy but none the less beautiful. You can always count on Phoebe Philo to have come up with some sort of a clever combination.
Fringe has never been my thing but Isabel Marant does it so well. I’ve literally been dreaming about these boots at night. They’re just so… French, the shape, the way they fold themselves around the leg, it’s just magnificent. I also love the Ann D-esque jewelry. It’s like a simple, small feather can speak a thousand words.
Givenchy. What a brilliant combo of an organza pencil skirt and a pleated leather one on top.
Lanvin – so goddamn perfect, it hurts. The off-black colors, the materials, the fluidness of the dresses. Gaaaaahhh.
Stella McCartney was taking androgyny to the next level with some looks and embraced feminity in others. However, I do not like that the risen shoe-cleavage, it looks ugly.
Yves Saint Laurent. As classy as ever.
PARIS FASHION WEEK ROCKS!!!
You can visit the wild side with Ann Demeulemeester‘s leather, fur and feathers.
Or get your freak on with Rick Owens. PS! LONG GLOVES!
Haider Ackermann delivered again! A very strong collection. His draping/knotting technique is brilliant! Such a rising star! No wonder Karl has his eye on him to be his successor at Chanel.
Mugler has risen from the ashes. Nicola Formichetti has done a great job. Wouldn’t mind wearing any of this at all.
Barbara Bui is stepping into the limelight with her fall collection. The shoes are to die for.