For some reason I usually don’t find Milan Fashion Week to be very thrilling, this time however there was a lot I enjoyed.
Emilio Pucci has been getting better and better each season. The alligator motives embedded to chiffon remind me of a certain Givenchy collection, which means nothing more than that it’s a great technique. The white tuxedo jacket is beautiful.
Etro. These belts with peplums are gonna take the world by storm.
Alberta Ferretti. Sharp tailored coats, strong 30’s influence.
Roberto Cavalli. I can appreciate the new skirt silhouette, though takes some getting used to. Killer jackets.
Gucci absolutely blew my mind. The fine wool coats, the mustard prints, the sheer and the embroidery. Dark lips and bleached eyebrows… hmm, could it be Rooney Mara’s influence?
Salvatore Ferragamo. There can never be enough military coats in the worlds.
I know we are almost done with Milan by now, but bare with me while I share my thoughts on London Fashion Week.
Aquascutum. Looks like a hybrid of Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim, but stands in its own right. Love the severity.
Giles delivered a range of interesting dresses.
As did Mary Katrantzou. This babydoll cut looks really fresh, though of course I’d personally prefer different prints/colors.
Burberry Prorsum. The waist is clearly in focus – belts, pencilskirts, peplums, cropped jackets and exaggerated pockets. Accessories are killing it! Also, I was thinking the other day of how Burberry is the Coca-Cola of trenches, everybody tries to copy the formula, but no one ever gets it like Burberry does.
This expression isn’t very erudite but OMFG!!! Burberry Prorsum’s final walkthrough was magical! Not only did they somehow make it rain even outside the wintergarden, those studded gloves are what everyone is talking about. Christopher Bailey delivered again, ladies and gentlemen – these gloves are the ultimate statussymbols next fall(also great for self-protection).They better make a few million pairs to accommodate the demand. And it actually might be possible that Mr. Bailey just upgraded all the (studded) umbrellas of the world to the accessory category. I haven’t really been thrilled with Burberry’s last two seasons, but this time I loved it!
New York Fashion Week has come and gone, time to make some conclusions.
1) WTF is going on inside Marc Jacobs’ head? His namesake was horrific!
2) Victoria Beckham and The Row get a big thumbs-up.
3) Alexander Wang is starting to look more and more like Christina Yang.
4) Generally speaking – I’m entirely underwhelmed. Didn’t see anything with a wow-factor. Even Michael Kors was a total buzzkill. Guess all my hopes are on Paris this time.
There were, however, some highlights:
Alexander Wang. The doctor’s bags are a total score! I like the combinations of different textures of shiny black and the overlaying sense of austerity.
Altuzarra is really starting to establish himself as a higher rank designer. According to him, this collection was made for a pirate, whose mother was a gypsy and father a Venetian.
Cushie et Ochs. By far the most interesting designer duo out there.
3.1 Phillip Lim. The first thought that came to mind – Elin Kling. This looks like something she’d wear, which is a very good thing.
Helmut Lang . Thigh-highs, leather, fur and mesh. What more could a girl ask for?
You know, the time for…
… candids from backstage…
… Olsens in the front row…
… accessory tables…
… 5000 $ coats on the street…
… and veteran models crawling out of their holes.
It’s fashion week, bitches!
A year ago, the Celine fall show was a revelation. This time, it was slightly less vampy but none the less beautiful. You can always count on Phoebe Philo to have come up with some sort of a clever combination.
Fringe has never been my thing but Isabel Marant does it so well. I’ve literally been dreaming about these boots at night. They’re just so… French, the shape, the way they fold themselves around the leg, it’s just magnificent. I also love the Ann D-esque jewelry. It’s like a simple, small feather can speak a thousand words.
Givenchy. What a brilliant combo of an organza pencil skirt and a pleated leather one on top.
Lanvin – so goddamn perfect, it hurts. The off-black colors, the materials, the fluidness of the dresses. Gaaaaahhh.
Stella McCartney was taking androgyny to the next level with some looks and embraced feminity in others. However, I do not like that the risen shoe-cleavage, it looks ugly.
Yves Saint Laurent. As classy as ever.
PARIS FASHION WEEK ROCKS!!!
You can visit the wild side with Ann Demeulemeester‘s leather, fur and feathers.
Or get your freak on with Rick Owens. PS! LONG GLOVES!
Haider Ackermann delivered again! A very strong collection. His draping/knotting technique is brilliant! Such a rising star! No wonder Karl has his eye on him to be his successor at Chanel.
Mugler has risen from the ashes. Nicola Formichetti has done a great job. Wouldn’t mind wearing any of this at all.
Barbara Bui is stepping into the limelight with her fall collection. The shoes are to die for.
Gareth Pugh FW 2011
Magnificent! I’d wear every single thing! And you know that cobalt blue and metal cuffs are gonna be HUGE when even Gareth Pugh has them in his line.
Gucci. Stunning! The whole collection! Gucci is getting better every season!
Emporio Armani. Much better than the main line.
Emilio Pucci. Love the decadent elegance and the shoes!
Roberto Cavalli. A thousand dirty layers.
Dsquared. Very Wild West inspired. Wicked boots.
Olivia Palermo is always present at London fashionweek and rocks it like no other.
London fashionweek has come and gone and Gucci has already shown it’s lavish luxury in Milan but let’s round up what goodies we got from London.
London fashionweek is usually the one that excites me the least with the profound exception of Burberry Prorsum. This FW season however, many of my usual favorites have been disappointing to my personal sense of fashion. Marc Jacobs, Acne and … Burberry Prorsum. Acne was… too damn ugly. Burberry Prorsum, there were only two looks that I liked, which is sort of unbelievable for me. I do think that the show was amazing, the snow and the music etc. But the clothes just weren’t my cup of tea and the shoes seemed very uncomfortable. Of course, they were immaculate in tayloring and design but so not the kind of mindblowing Burberry I had expected to see. The pre-fall collection was so much better.
I am very happy with New York Fashion Week so far, not counting in the Marc Jacobs nightmare of polkadots EVERYWHERE, which just like Topshop SS 2011 is forever banned from my blog . Seems like all my favorite trends are going to survive the summer and come back with more force in the Fall. Fur is clearly dominant, leather is more luxurious than ever, we see long gloves and chic slim coats, a lot of silk and satin, chiffon and lace, angora and cashmere, pouch bags and the color Red isn’t going anywhere. And this is just the beginning. You don’t have to be Freud to see that we are reliving the 30’s, where fashion protested against hard times with more luxury than ever – fur, leather, silk – bring it on!
All in all, I’d say that the general picture is divided in two – a dark and minimalistic 21th century vampire vibe and then there are the extravagant but yet minimalistic romantics. First of which, I’m bringing to you today.
Alexander Wang KILLED IT! It’s not often i’m so positively shocked of what designers have come up with but this is one of those times. How the hell to you integrate angora with satin like that? It seems like the satin just grew out of the wool. Insane. Having some experience with sewing myself, I know just how reluctant chiffon is to cooperation, I would die to get to turn these garments inside out and find out if they welded the different and pain-to-process fabrics together. Not to mention it all looks Beautiful! Sooooo well done.
Christian Siriano really surprised me with the quality of his work. Top-notch fabrics and the shoes are very interesting, a bit like those industrial monsters from McQueen’s SS 2010, the satin skirt in the first picture is amazing!
An A+ outfit from Rebecca Minkoff. Loving everything about this: the cape, the quilted knee khaki pants, the shoes, the leopard clutch.
The Olsens had a very strong collection with The Row. They’ve added more color(dark ones still), more fur and variety to the line. Beautiful clean lines.
Theyskens Theory showed a lot of potential with the current SS line to evolve to a real powerhouse and I’m happy to see that they are continuing on the course. The knits, the woolen coats, playing around with minimalism, fur and lace have resulted in many wearable outfits.
Oh and PS: Stock up on dark lipstick!
Can’t imagine how much that Balmain jacket weighs…
LOVE your corset Anja!
Great sleeves on the blazer.
Amazing what things have become socially acceptable :D Never would have thought. This and all above are Balmain.
Maison Martin Margiela. From another world as usual.
Haider Ackermann. Amazing tailoring.
Haider Ackermann. I fall more in love with leather every time I see it.
YSL. Fur skirt? Fabulous. And I have shoes that look just like those :D
How dreamy. I can definitely see myself prancing around in such revealing, romantic dresses next summer.
Insane shoes and bag from Acne
Loving her blue make-up. And as you can see, Christian Louboutin has collaborated with Mark Fast this season.
And some more Burberry Prorsum. Can’t get enough.
… they first lay their eyes on Burberry Prorsum‘s new season. It has become, I’d say, the highlight of all the fashionweeks put together. I don’t know about you but the anticipation of seeing Burberry’s new collection makes me tremble and hyperventilate. Their pieces are so wearable that it makes them even more desirable, I mean… you can be excited for Balmain’s show (and I am, believe me) but you know that you’ll never be able to attain them so you’re heart doesn’t start racing in that ”now-i’m-gonna-see-what-i’ll-be-wearing-next-spring” way.
But the collection itself was heavenly. The different textures and types of leather, fabric, the bold colors of the dresses and the highlighting accessories, and yet, it all maintains a dark gamma. Cannot wait to see it all in editorials. And the campaign… oh damn.
Here are a few tasters from the website, decent pictures from the runway are yet to surface.
Marry me, Christopher Bailey!
With every ensemble making me short of superlatives, Marchesa’s spring collection deserved it’s own post!
Herve Leger by Max Azria
3.1 Phillip Lim
3.1 Phillip Lim
3.1 Phillip Lim
3.1 Phillip Lim
Zero + Maria Cornejo