Jean Paul Caultier. “The frenchest French” had a marvelous collection.
Many people thought that Balmain would lose its pzazz without Decarnin, glad to see they were wrong.
Gareth Pugh has developed a very recognizable handwriting.
Elie Saab was very versatile, good to see different looks other than just the usual evening dresses.
Kanye West. This time there was no circus leading up to the show so I wasn’t even sure there was gonna be one. I’m impressed either way. The backpack are insane.
Haider Ackermann being his good-old self.
Rick Owens. Love the new jacket shapes, the new color scheme, the immaculate draping. Would expect nothing less.
Celine. Feels kinda lean compared to some previous seasons but it’s obvious zippers are gonna have a moment next fall.
Balenciaga. Beautiful shapes and textures.
Bless Stella McCartney – women are allowed to have hips again.
Nina Ricci. Looks like a vampish Lolita from the 30′s stepped through the time machine.
Givenchy. Looks like pre-fall was a good indication of the direction this season was going. What else to say but that it’s amazing.
Yves Saint Laurent. Stefano Pilati sure went out with a (fetish) bang. I’ll never get why he’s so unappreciated when his work for YSL has always been constantly beautiful.
Ann Demeumeester never disappoints.
Viktor&Rolf - the undisputed kings of lasercut.
For some reason I usually don’t find Milan Fashion Week to be very thrilling, this time however there was a lot I enjoyed.
Emilio Pucci has been getting better and better each season. The alligator motives embedded to chiffon remind me of a certain Givenchy collection, which means nothing more than that it’s a great technique. The white tuxedo jacket is beautiful.
Etro. These belts with peplums are gonna take the world by storm.
Alberta Ferretti. Sharp tailored coats, strong 30′s influence.
Roberto Cavalli. I can appreciate the new skirt silhouette, though takes some getting used to. Killer jackets.
Gucci absolutely blew my mind. The fine wool coats, the mustard prints, the sheer and the embroidery. Dark lips and bleached eyebrows… hmm, could it be Rooney Mara’s influence?
Salvatore Ferragamo. There can never be enough military coats in the worlds.
I know we are almost done with Milan by now, but bare with me while I share my thoughts on London Fashion Week.
Aquascutum. Looks like a hybrid of Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim, but stands in its own right. Love the severity.
Giles delivered a range of interesting dresses.
As did Mary Katrantzou. This babydoll cut looks really fresh, though of course I’d personally prefer different prints/colors.
Burberry Prorsum. The waist is clearly in focus – belts, pencilskirts, peplums, cropped jackets and exaggerated pockets. Accessories are killing it! Also, I was thinking the other day of how Burberry is the Coca-Cola of trenches, everybody tries to copy the formula, but no one ever gets it like Burberry does.