Goodbye for now
This blog will be on hiatus until fall. See you in September.
The Epitome
Jean Paul Caultier. “The frenchest French” had a marvelous collection.
Many people thought that Balmain would lose its pzazz without Decarnin, glad to see they were wrong.
Gareth Pugh has developed a very recognizable handwriting.
Elie Saab was very versatile, good to see different looks other than just the usual evening dresses.
Kanye West. This time there was no circus leading up to the show so I wasn’t even sure there was gonna be one. I’m impressed either way. The backpack are insane.
Haider Ackermann being his good-old self.
Rick Owens. Love the new jacket shapes, the new color scheme, the immaculate draping. Would expect nothing less.
Celine. Feels kinda lean compared to some previous seasons but it’s obvious zippers are gonna have a moment next fall.
Balenciaga. Beautiful shapes and textures.
Bless Stella McCartney – women are allowed to have hips again.
Nina Ricci. Looks like a vampish Lolita from the 30′s stepped through the time machine.
Givenchy. Looks like pre-fall was a good indication of the direction this season was going. What else to say but that it’s amazing.
Yves Saint Laurent. Stefano Pilati sure went out with a (fetish) bang. I’ll never get why he’s so unappreciated when his work for YSL has always been constantly beautiful.
Ann Demeumeester never disappoints.
Viktor&Rolf - the undisputed kings of lasercut.
Ankle. Strap.
When both Givenchy and Celine do ankle-strap shoes for spring, Mango for sure follows. (Mango shoes)
We all have to decide for ourselves how much sin we can live with
For some reason I usually don’t find Milan Fashion Week to be very thrilling, this time however there was a lot I enjoyed.
Emilio Pucci has been getting better and better each season. The alligator motives embedded to chiffon remind me of a certain Givenchy collection, which means nothing more than that it’s a great technique. The white tuxedo jacket is beautiful.
Etro. These belts with peplums are gonna take the world by storm.
Alberta Ferretti. Sharp tailored coats, strong 30′s influence.
Roberto Cavalli. I can appreciate the new skirt silhouette, though takes some getting used to. Killer jackets.
Gucci absolutely blew my mind. The fine wool coats, the mustard prints, the sheer and the embroidery. Dark lips and bleached eyebrows… hmm, could it be Rooney Mara’s influence?
Salvatore Ferragamo. There can never be enough military coats in the worlds.
Fallen through the cracks
Hanne Gaby Odiele is the queen of the model-of-duty look this season.
T by Alexander Wang FW 2012
Christine Centenera
Christopher Kane FW 2012
Kate Lanphear & Leigh Lezark
London drizzle
I know we are almost done with Milan by now, but bare with me while I share my thoughts on London Fashion Week.
Aquascutum. Looks like a hybrid of Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim, but stands in its own right. Love the severity.
Giles delivered a range of interesting dresses.
As did Mary Katrantzou. This babydoll cut looks really fresh, though of course I’d personally prefer different prints/colors.
Burberry Prorsum. The waist is clearly in focus – belts, pencilskirts, peplums, cropped jackets and exaggerated pockets. Accessories are killing it! Also, I was thinking the other day of how Burberry is the Coca-Cola of trenches, everybody tries to copy the formula, but no one ever gets it like Burberry does.
Moments with Magdalena
Magdalena Frackowiak rocking some rocks for Vogue Paris and Gucci for Vogue Spain.
Can we skip the summer because of these gloves?
This expression isn’t very erudite but OMFG!!! Burberry Prorsum’s final walkthrough was magical! Not only did they somehow make it rain even outside the wintergarden, those studded gloves are what everyone is talking about. Christopher Bailey delivered again, ladies and gentlemen – these gloves are the ultimate statussymbols next fall(also great for self-protection).They better make a few million pairs to accommodate the demand. And it actually might be possible that Mr. Bailey just upgraded all the (studded) umbrellas of the world to the accessory category. I haven’t really been thrilled with Burberry’s last two seasons, but this time I loved it!
Threepiece
Strangely enough, the only look that caught my eye at Donna Karan was the one she was wearing herself. A threepiece tuxedo that looks so unexpectedly stunning! Her collection was strongly influenced by menswear but there was nothing as special as this.
It actually isn’t the first time I’ve felt the lure of a threepiece – watch Tom Ford being all dapper in this documentary, and I guarantee that some of you will too. He really does look amazing all the time even when he’s essentially always wearing the same thing.
Notes from the never-ending Circus
New York Fashion Week has come and gone, time to make some conclusions.
1) WTF is going on inside Marc Jacobs’ head? His namesake was horrific!
2) Victoria Beckham and The Row get a big thumbs-up.
3) Alexander Wang is starting to look more and more like Christina Yang.
4) Generally speaking – I’m entirely underwhelmed. Didn’t see anything with a wow-factor. Even Michael Kors was a total buzzkill. Guess all my hopes are on Paris this time.
There were, however, some highlights:
Alexander Wang. The doctor’s bags are a total score! I like the combinations of different textures of shiny black and the overlaying sense of austerity.
Altuzarra is really starting to establish himself as a higher rank designer. According to him, this collection was made for a pirate, whose mother was a gypsy and father a Venetian.
Cushie et Ochs. By far the most interesting designer duo out there.
3.1 Phillip Lim. The first thought that came to mind – Elin Kling. This looks like something she’d wear, which is a very good thing.
Helmut Lang . Thigh-highs, leather, fur and mesh. What more could a girl ask for?
There is no getting over this
After all this time, the Celine SS 2011 print is still haunting my thoughts… and the Zara knockoffs just will not do.
